This is just to check in your shoes
Mandatory foot bath
First glimpse of the Golden Temple
Baddest dude in India
Guards relaxing and chatting between skewering unruly tourists
People bathing
Download this one and zoom in on the artwork
Everybody eats for free
But it takes a lot of volunteers to feed them all
Baba Deep Singh Ji
Sikh Pope's House
Entrance to the temple. Download and zoom in to see the detail. Look how thick the gold is.
One last look
We arrived at Amritsar, parked, and the four of us piled into a couple of rickshaws and took off for the Golden Temple.
Once there I realized this place was far larger than I expected. So many people visit that they have a special place across the street to check your shoes. Also again we had to cover our heads so I had to buy a special gold scarf that says ‘Golden Temple’ on it. Somehow I didn’t feel very holy.
At the entrance you literally have to walk through water in order to clean your feet and properly respect the Temple. That’s pretty cool, as long as they keep refreshing the water.
We entered the Gurdwara and this vast square pond surrounded by large walls opened before us. It’s about a square mile in size and surrounded by high walled buildings. On one side is an isthmus which juts out onto an island in the center of the pond. On this island sits a temple covered inside and out in gold. This is the Golden Temple proper, the Harmandir Sahib. Now it’s not built OF gold, it’s gold sheeting, about three tons worth. Three freaking tons. And it’s not like the cute gold leaf you get in most churches, it’s more like an eighth of an inch thick. I’ve never heard of a Sikh taking a vow of poverty.
Right after us walked in a small, fierce, badass looking dude in a very fancy getup with a beautiful black hat and a sword about one third his size. He wasn’t big by any means, but his countenance was quite severe, this mofo was not to be trifled with. Rajeev told me he was from a special warrior clan of the Sikhs and dressed traditionally. I asked Rajeev if I could take the guy’s picture or would he get mad and run me through with that sword. After all, when you’re in someobody else’s holy place you’d best confirm before discovering you’ve made a faux paux that could cost you your life. “Another stupid tourist took a picture of a Sikh warrior, toss his body with all the other infidels on the other side of the wall”. I doubt I’d even make the news.
Rajeev said it was okay to take his picture, but I still kind of pretended I was just taking a bunch of pictures around the temple and only got one of the warrior. While he wasn’t very big, I’d still pick him in a fight with a Crip anyday.
Most of what Americans know about the Golden Temple is that this is the central place of Sikh worship. Okay most Americans don’t know jack about the Golden Temple, but a few are old enough to remember a religious zealot named Bhindranwale had taken over the Gurdwara in 1984 and hundreds of people were there. India’s Prime Minister, Indira Ghandi, had sent in the army to root him out, killed a few hundred people, and destroyed some buildings, including the Akal Takhat, the seat of government/religion for the Sikhs and home to what I incorrectly call their Pope (I can’t find his proper title). The Golden Temple itself sustained some damage from gunfire but was not destroyed.
What’s really amazing is that I can find no reliable sources of information about what really happened or how extensive the damage was. I ask again and again why it happened and I receive vague answers about how ‘complicated’ and ‘political’ it was, this from both Sikhs and Hindus. It would take hours to explain the politics involved they tell me.
The nearest I can make out is that Bhindranwale was a Sikh fundamentalist who would preach/hassle/attack (again depending on your point of view) against those who did not live up to the purity he wanted from Sikhs. He was definitely used by Indira Ghandi to strike at another troublesome Sikh group at one point and was implicated in a murder. The Sikh’s tell me he became a megalomaniac and decided to challenge Ghandi in the Golden Temple. He never openly declared for an independent Khalistan (Sikh homeland of the Punjab), he was probably too smart for that, but the implication was there. Indira Ghandi felt she couldn’t allow this and ordered the military operation.
But so many questions remain. Why in the world would she do something so obviously fraught with peril? Her own Sikh military commander resigned rather than approve the military action against the temple. Did Bhindranwale take pilgrims hostage or were they supporters? I can find no mention of hostages, even the government didn’t claim there were hostages, so they must have been supporters. Why did the Sikh Pope in the Gurdwara allow Bhindranwale to set up shop there? The Sikh Pope (I can’t find his name anywhere) has no problems with weapons in the complex as separating Sikhism and weapons is like separating Christianity and the Cross, but what was the ultimate goal?
To make matters worse, while there is a free press in India, I’m told there are 27,000 daily papers, they all are just different versions of Fox News, spreading lies and disinformation rather than rooting out facts and truth. It’s obvious the Indian government is hiding something and just wants the issue to go away. But the Sikhs have created their own campaign to downplay Bhidranwale’s fanaticism. I have a well educated Sikh friend who told me that Bhidranwale wanted to restore respect for the Golden Temple because people were leaving cigarette butts and trash in the pond. Automatic weapons are needed to fight cigarette butts.
I’ve only been to two Sikh Gurdwaras now, but I can say without hesitation that they were very clean. Gopi says all the Sikh gurdwaras are spotless, the Hindu temples are dirty. Considering he’s a Hindu that says something about what to expect. I can’t imagine anybody smoking in the Golden Temple or anybody leaving any trash around. I didn’t so much as see a candy wrapper in the pond. But then again, maybe Bhindranwale’s made his point.
This proved to be a huge miscalculation for Ghandi and it cost her her life when her two Sikh bodyguards assassinated her a few months later. The Sikhs smile proudly when they tell me that the Golden Temple has only been attacked three times in history and all three leaders who ordered the attacks were killed within six months.
While I don’t see any sign of Sikh’s seeking independence, whenever a discussion of the Golden Temple comes up, no matter how non-existent their English, the Sikhs make sure I understand their repulsion to the attack on their sacred shrine.
We ate at the Gurdwara first before going to the Golden Temple. At least 1500 people were being fed there. A sign hangs at the entranceway that I find to be very spirtitual. Remember this is a translation, I’m told the original language is very poetic.
The Lord himself is the farm
Himself is the farmer
Himself he grows and grinds the corn
Himself he cooks
Himself he places in on a platter
And Himself he eats too
Himself is the water
Himself the toothpick
Himself he offers a handful of water
Himself he calls the men to eat
Himself he bids them off
The Lord is merciful
He makes him walk in his will
This was eating on an industrial scale without industrial machines. Just hundreds of people pitching in. Tons of food being cooked, handed out, and platters being cleaned. All for free of course. It was a chaotic well oiled machine.
We walked around the Gurdwara and came to a place showing the story of a Sikh warrior named Baba Deep Singh Ji who had been fighting off enemies outside the Gurdwara. In the fighting his head was cut off but he held his head in one hand while continuing to fight with the other. He was determined to fight his way inside the Gurdwara before he died and he succeeded.
Rajeev looked at me, “This is possible you know”.
That’s nothing, the Christians popped a guy out of his grave after three days.
Up in the visitor’s center was more information about the Sikh Gurus, there were ten of them, and paintings of damage done to the Golden Temple. Hmmm, I bet the Indian government didn’t allow any pictures taken of the damage. In today’s YouTube world, that is now an impossibility.
But also, as befits a warrior religion, there are a dozens of large macabre photos of Sikh’s who have been killed in defense of their religion. The corpses are all cleaned and dressed with garlands around their necks, most I believe are from the 1984 battle. They died as holy warriors.
We got in line to get to the Golden Temple and it was packed. Indian’s believe that unless you can feel their nipples in your shoulder blades there’s too much space between you. What I didn’t find out until later is that most of the people were not Sikh pilgrims, most were Hindu tourists.
The Golden Temple is exactly what it looks like except up close the gold is all beautifully inscribed. Can you imagine being the guy writing in this gold? The gold is in sheets about three feet across. Odd corners and rounded edges are all covered with writing, every inch. St. Peter’s has some fantastic stuff, but nothing like this. Benedict should make a visit.
Inside, the Sikh’s holy book, called the Eleventh Guru, lies under a beautiful blue blanket while a bunch of guys play instruments and read from their scriptures. I’m told this is broadcast on the internet, but I couldn’t find it. People were throwing money on the floor, something about all that gold makes you feel rich and like giving more.
Upstairs there is another smaller room where people, Hindu, Sikh, and even some Western tourists, sit and soak up the atmosphere. All poshly laid out with brightly colored rugs and pillows. Up on the roof you can look out over the whole Gurdwara and touch the golden plastered domes.
“How about that!” Gopi stroked one of the gold domes. There’s something about touching gold to make you think that prosperity will rub off on you. He motioned with his hand at all the gold and the fantastic view of the entire Gurdwara, “Pretty impressive isn’t it?”
I looked out and had to agree, this was dang impressive, and worth a trip to India.
Entrance to the temple. Download and zoom in to see the detail. Look how thick the gold is.
One last lookWe arrived at Amritsar, parked, and the four of us piled into a couple of rickshaws and took off for the Golden Temple.
Once there I realized this place was far larger than I expected. So many people visit that they have a special place across the street to check your shoes. Also again we had to cover our heads so I had to buy a special gold scarf that says ‘Golden Temple’ on it. Somehow I didn’t feel very holy.
At the entrance you literally have to walk through water in order to clean your feet and properly respect the Temple. That’s pretty cool, as long as they keep refreshing the water.
We entered the Gurdwara and this vast square pond surrounded by large walls opened before us. It’s about a square mile in size and surrounded by high walled buildings. On one side is an isthmus which juts out onto an island in the center of the pond. On this island sits a temple covered inside and out in gold. This is the Golden Temple proper, the Harmandir Sahib. Now it’s not built OF gold, it’s gold sheeting, about three tons worth. Three freaking tons. And it’s not like the cute gold leaf you get in most churches, it’s more like an eighth of an inch thick. I’ve never heard of a Sikh taking a vow of poverty.
Right after us walked in a small, fierce, badass looking dude in a very fancy getup with a beautiful black hat and a sword about one third his size. He wasn’t big by any means, but his countenance was quite severe, this mofo was not to be trifled with. Rajeev told me he was from a special warrior clan of the Sikhs and dressed traditionally. I asked Rajeev if I could take the guy’s picture or would he get mad and run me through with that sword. After all, when you’re in someobody else’s holy place you’d best confirm before discovering you’ve made a faux paux that could cost you your life. “Another stupid tourist took a picture of a Sikh warrior, toss his body with all the other infidels on the other side of the wall”. I doubt I’d even make the news.
Rajeev said it was okay to take his picture, but I still kind of pretended I was just taking a bunch of pictures around the temple and only got one of the warrior. While he wasn’t very big, I’d still pick him in a fight with a Crip anyday.
Most of what Americans know about the Golden Temple is that this is the central place of Sikh worship. Okay most Americans don’t know jack about the Golden Temple, but a few are old enough to remember a religious zealot named Bhindranwale had taken over the Gurdwara in 1984 and hundreds of people were there. India’s Prime Minister, Indira Ghandi, had sent in the army to root him out, killed a few hundred people, and destroyed some buildings, including the Akal Takhat, the seat of government/religion for the Sikhs and home to what I incorrectly call their Pope (I can’t find his proper title). The Golden Temple itself sustained some damage from gunfire but was not destroyed.
What’s really amazing is that I can find no reliable sources of information about what really happened or how extensive the damage was. I ask again and again why it happened and I receive vague answers about how ‘complicated’ and ‘political’ it was, this from both Sikhs and Hindus. It would take hours to explain the politics involved they tell me.
The nearest I can make out is that Bhindranwale was a Sikh fundamentalist who would preach/hassle/attack (again depending on your point of view) against those who did not live up to the purity he wanted from Sikhs. He was definitely used by Indira Ghandi to strike at another troublesome Sikh group at one point and was implicated in a murder. The Sikh’s tell me he became a megalomaniac and decided to challenge Ghandi in the Golden Temple. He never openly declared for an independent Khalistan (Sikh homeland of the Punjab), he was probably too smart for that, but the implication was there. Indira Ghandi felt she couldn’t allow this and ordered the military operation.
But so many questions remain. Why in the world would she do something so obviously fraught with peril? Her own Sikh military commander resigned rather than approve the military action against the temple. Did Bhindranwale take pilgrims hostage or were they supporters? I can find no mention of hostages, even the government didn’t claim there were hostages, so they must have been supporters. Why did the Sikh Pope in the Gurdwara allow Bhindranwale to set up shop there? The Sikh Pope (I can’t find his name anywhere) has no problems with weapons in the complex as separating Sikhism and weapons is like separating Christianity and the Cross, but what was the ultimate goal?
To make matters worse, while there is a free press in India, I’m told there are 27,000 daily papers, they all are just different versions of Fox News, spreading lies and disinformation rather than rooting out facts and truth. It’s obvious the Indian government is hiding something and just wants the issue to go away. But the Sikhs have created their own campaign to downplay Bhidranwale’s fanaticism. I have a well educated Sikh friend who told me that Bhidranwale wanted to restore respect for the Golden Temple because people were leaving cigarette butts and trash in the pond. Automatic weapons are needed to fight cigarette butts.
I’ve only been to two Sikh Gurdwaras now, but I can say without hesitation that they were very clean. Gopi says all the Sikh gurdwaras are spotless, the Hindu temples are dirty. Considering he’s a Hindu that says something about what to expect. I can’t imagine anybody smoking in the Golden Temple or anybody leaving any trash around. I didn’t so much as see a candy wrapper in the pond. But then again, maybe Bhindranwale’s made his point.
This proved to be a huge miscalculation for Ghandi and it cost her her life when her two Sikh bodyguards assassinated her a few months later. The Sikhs smile proudly when they tell me that the Golden Temple has only been attacked three times in history and all three leaders who ordered the attacks were killed within six months.
While I don’t see any sign of Sikh’s seeking independence, whenever a discussion of the Golden Temple comes up, no matter how non-existent their English, the Sikhs make sure I understand their repulsion to the attack on their sacred shrine.
We ate at the Gurdwara first before going to the Golden Temple. At least 1500 people were being fed there. A sign hangs at the entranceway that I find to be very spirtitual. Remember this is a translation, I’m told the original language is very poetic.
The Lord himself is the farm
Himself is the farmer
Himself he grows and grinds the corn
Himself he cooks
Himself he places in on a platter
And Himself he eats too
Himself is the water
Himself the toothpick
Himself he offers a handful of water
Himself he calls the men to eat
Himself he bids them off
The Lord is merciful
He makes him walk in his will
This was eating on an industrial scale without industrial machines. Just hundreds of people pitching in. Tons of food being cooked, handed out, and platters being cleaned. All for free of course. It was a chaotic well oiled machine.
We walked around the Gurdwara and came to a place showing the story of a Sikh warrior named Baba Deep Singh Ji who had been fighting off enemies outside the Gurdwara. In the fighting his head was cut off but he held his head in one hand while continuing to fight with the other. He was determined to fight his way inside the Gurdwara before he died and he succeeded.
Rajeev looked at me, “This is possible you know”.
That’s nothing, the Christians popped a guy out of his grave after three days.
Up in the visitor’s center was more information about the Sikh Gurus, there were ten of them, and paintings of damage done to the Golden Temple. Hmmm, I bet the Indian government didn’t allow any pictures taken of the damage. In today’s YouTube world, that is now an impossibility.
But also, as befits a warrior religion, there are a dozens of large macabre photos of Sikh’s who have been killed in defense of their religion. The corpses are all cleaned and dressed with garlands around their necks, most I believe are from the 1984 battle. They died as holy warriors.
We got in line to get to the Golden Temple and it was packed. Indian’s believe that unless you can feel their nipples in your shoulder blades there’s too much space between you. What I didn’t find out until later is that most of the people were not Sikh pilgrims, most were Hindu tourists.
The Golden Temple is exactly what it looks like except up close the gold is all beautifully inscribed. Can you imagine being the guy writing in this gold? The gold is in sheets about three feet across. Odd corners and rounded edges are all covered with writing, every inch. St. Peter’s has some fantastic stuff, but nothing like this. Benedict should make a visit.
Inside, the Sikh’s holy book, called the Eleventh Guru, lies under a beautiful blue blanket while a bunch of guys play instruments and read from their scriptures. I’m told this is broadcast on the internet, but I couldn’t find it. People were throwing money on the floor, something about all that gold makes you feel rich and like giving more.
Upstairs there is another smaller room where people, Hindu, Sikh, and even some Western tourists, sit and soak up the atmosphere. All poshly laid out with brightly colored rugs and pillows. Up on the roof you can look out over the whole Gurdwara and touch the golden plastered domes.
“How about that!” Gopi stroked one of the gold domes. There’s something about touching gold to make you think that prosperity will rub off on you. He motioned with his hand at all the gold and the fantastic view of the entire Gurdwara, “Pretty impressive isn’t it?”
I looked out and had to agree, this was dang impressive, and worth a trip to India.
